FREQUENTLY ASKED RADON QUESTIONS

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is radon?

Radon is a colorless, odorless and tasteless radioactive gas found in homes throughout the United States. Radon is a naturally occurring gas, which emanates from soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon gas comes from the naturally occurring uranium in the soil. In the uranium (U-238) decay series, radon (Rn-222), which emanates from the decay of radium (Ra-226) is the only gaseous element. Radon gas takes the path of least resistance up through the ground and if the radon source is near a home’s foundation, it will enter the house due to negative air pressure in the home caused by normal house ventilation. The air pressure is lower above a foundation floor than it is beneath it due to mechanical systems such as furnaces, water heaters, gas clothes dryers, whole house attic fans, bathroom vent fans or due to something as simple as opening and closing of doors and windows. Individually, or combining a few of these elements, will create a vacuum effect, which will literally suck the radon gas into your home. It enters homes through floor cracks, cold-joints, control cuts, sump pits and any other openings in a foundation or crawlspace. In closed house conditions, the radon gas can maintain elevated levels in your home.

What does radon do?

Radon is classified as a Class A (Group1) carcinogen, which is a substance that can cause changes in cells that can lead to cancer in humans. Inhalation is the exposure pathway. Once in the lungs, residual radon decays rapidly into other decay products that are responsible for lung cell damage, which may lead to the development of lung cancer. It has been estimated that exposure to these decay products or progeny, causes between 15,000 and 22,000 lung cancer deaths per year. No cancers other than lung cancer have been attributed to radon.

How do you test for radon?

Radon testing is performed over 2 or more days using a radon test kit or an electronic continuous radon monitor. In Illinois, radon measurement (testing) companies are licensed and regulated through the Illinois Emergency Management Agency (I.E.M.A.) Department of Nuclear Safety’s Radon Program (800-325-1245). If testing is performed in conjunction with a real estate transaction in Illinois, you must use an I.E.M.A. licensed testing company. If not, you can purchase test kits from local hardware stores, home-centers, county health departments (most of the time they're free) or via the internet for as little as $5.00. There are also some very accurate Bluetooth compatible radon monitors on Amazon.com for under $200.00.

What do my results mean?

The results of your test will be given in pico Curies per Liter (of air), or pCi/L. If a result is above 4.0 pCi/L, it is suggested that the radon level be mitigated (reduced) to a level below 4.0 pCi/L to minimize health risks. The average outdoor level in the United States is 0.4 pCi/L. In an ideal situation after mitigating, your home could be close to that level. You would then be no worse off being in your home than outside. While achieving average outdoor levels is not always possible, all homes can be mitigated to a level below the action level of 4.0 pCi/L.

What are the steps involved in mitigating ny home?

Most mitigation methods utilize a sub-slab depressurization (SSD) system in order to remove or re-route the radon gas. You can’t eliminate the source of radon gas but you can re-route the gas and exhaust it past the highest gutter line or roof eave of your home, where the gas will dissipate and do no harm.

Sealing of all radon entry points with caulks, expanding foam sealants, lids or covers is the first step.

Secondly, a single hole (if sub-slab material is permeable) or series of holes (if sub-slab material is not permeable) are cored through the concrete floor to expose the sub-slab material. Removing 5-10 gallons of the sub-slab material from beneath the cored hole creates a suction pit or depressurization chamber. Permeable sub-slab material such as gravel or loose fill or combinations of the two are considered ideal for SSD systems, since the suction applied to the excavated hole can reach beyond the suction point to the opposite perimeter of the house foundation. Drilling a small 1/2" diameter hole through the basement floor at the opposite end of where the main 5" suction point is, will allow confirmation of communication between the two holes (main suction point & 1/2" hole) by emitting smoke from a chemical smoke tube at the smaller hole. If the smoke is sucked down through the hole, the communication is confirmed. If the smoke is not sucked down through the hole, it may be necessary to install a different model fan designed to pull on a tighter soil or to enlarge the 1/2" diameter hole to 5 inches, excavate the sub-slab material, route PVC pipe from the hole and connect it to the main suction point SSD system piping with a tee fitting. A single suction point typically cored next to the foundation's footing is usually all that is necessary to achieve the desired results if the sub-slab material is permeable. Standard construction practices present during the construction of the home will determine whether a permeable sub-slab material was utilized. Typically, homes 40 years or younger will have a permeable sub-slab material and homes older than that are a hit or miss situation. The sub-slab material composition won't be known until the first hole is cored. If it's not permeable, multiple suction points will be necessary, which raises the cost significantly.

PVC pipe is routed from the main suction point excavated hole to where a fan is installed. The fan’s exhaust is then routed to a point at least as high as the highest gutter line of any roof line on the house. Sometimes that necessitates installing the fan on the outside of the house and sometimes an attic space of an attached garage is a possible location. The roof line and /or the basement layout will determine the fan placement.

When dealing with other foundation types, such as crawlspaces that don’t have concrete floors or foundation walls made of hollow block or fieldstone, the systems are more labor intensive and costly.

Suction on crawlspaces is drawn from beneath a newly installed plastic membrane (simulating a floor), which is anchored to the foundation wall. The system utilized in this instance is a sub-membrane depressurization (SMD) system.

Hollow block foundation walls are sealed at the top openings and suction, through a block-wall depressurization (BWD) system, is drawn from the interior sides of all directional (North, South, East & West) accessible exterior foundation walls.

Fieldstone walls usually allow radon entry through the actual wall itself and sometimes suction from beyond the wall is typically the method of treatment. While you can install a radon mitigation system yourself, it is typically easier, more cost effective, and less time consuming to utilize the services of a mitigation professional.

How do I confirm my system works?

24 hours after the activation of your mitigation system, a 48 hour post-mitigation test can be performed. Depending on how you tested, you will know how effective your system is in a very short time. If the results are not below 4.0 pCi/L (or below a pre-mitigation level already below 4.0 pCi/L), you can demand additional mitigation. Any reputable licensed mitigation company will guarantee in writing a reduction below 4.0 pCi/L (or below a pre-mitigation level already below 4.0 pCi/L) and will return to perform additional work if necessary to achieve the required level at no added expense to you or your buyer.

Why do most companies use PVC pipe for an exterior system exhaust in lieu of aluminum downspout?

Some companies claim that PVC pipe is a better option than aluminum downspout for a system's exterior exhaust. They make claims that: PVC pipe exhaust is quieter with tighter joint connections; PVC pipe can be custom painted to match house colors; PVC pipe is better at withstanding exhaust condensation freezing in extreme winter conditions due to the thicker pipe wall thickness; etc. These claims are nothing more than excuses for using cheaper PVC pipe. A properly designed & installed mitigation system addresses most of the above claims including what is commonly referred to as an ice dam (freezing of exhaust condensation). In fact, we are so confident in our systems that we stand behind them with a full lifetime warranty.

There is no appreciable difference in noise level between PVC pipe & aluminum downspout, since the fan is isolated from both the inlet piping and outlet piping or downspout by rubber couplings, which also act as vibration isolators.

While PVC pipe can be custom painted, most installers will charge extra for painting and if the PVC pipe isn't properly primed, the paint won't adhere for long. Aluminum downspout is available factory painted in many colors at no extra charge to match existing soffit, gutter or siding colors on a house.

Since the interior of the pipe or downspout is open to outside air, there is no functional difference between PVC pipe and aluminum downspout in any weather conditions, including extreme winter conditions (sub-zero temperatures) if the system is designed & installed properly.

While it would be easier to install and cheaper for us to use PVC pipe, we use aluminum downspout to meet the aesthetic requirements that we believe should be a priority in the real estate market, as it most definitely is for concerned homeowners. Routing PVC pipe up the side or back of a home's exterior facade was never done until the radon industry was created. But, since the public was told by realtors & contractors alike that it was the only option available when installing an exterior radon mitigation system exhaust, it has become the acceptable norm. Timmit Radon Systems has refused to accept PVC pipe as the norm and only utilizes aluminum downspout exhausts.

Using aluminum downspout to match existing soffit, gutter or siding colors on a house requires extra time, effort and cost that most companies aren't willing to absorb. Instead, companies will try to convince the client that it's better to have the PVC pipe exhaust for the prevention of condensation freeze-up (a false claim) which can happen in extreme (sub-zero temperatures) winter weather conditions. Condensation can occur in any system exhaust (pvc pipe or aluminum downspout) and is caused by warm moist interior air being pumped to the outside, when the outside temperature is significantly cooler. All properly designed radon systems will drain away any condensation that occurs within the system, along with rain or snow that enters the system under normal conditions. Under extreme (sub-zero temperatures) winter cold conditions, the warm moist air being exhausted can freeze prior to exiting the top of the exhaust and may form an ice dam. This is caused by the extremely cold air entering the system from the open end and the airflow from the system not being sufficient to exhaust the warm air before it freezes. The ability of the system to exhaust the air under extreme cold conditions is a function of the total system design and is not strictly dependent on exhaust pipe material (PVC pipe or aluminum downspout). System design characteristics such as the diameter of the suction pipe, the size of the exhaust material used, the fan size, the location of the exhaust and length of the exhaust material all affect airflow. Timmit Radon Systems custom designs every radon mitigation system we install, so that it will work properly in all weather, be aesthetically pleasing and meet all of the requirements established by the Illinois Emergency Management Agency Radon Program.

Why do the majority of radon mitigation companies utilize three-inch instead of four-inch pvc pipe for the main or single suction point?

Typically, their reasoning would be that four-inch PVC pipe is overkill and not necessary to achieve the desired results of reducing the radon level below 4.0 pCi/L post-mitigation. The truth is that four-inch pipe, fittings, clamps, fire collars, etc. are more expensive than three-inch, so it's about saving money for them, but not necessarily for the client looking for the most efficient radon system that will get their radon level as low as reasonably achievable, or in acronym form, ALARA. Tim Poffenbarger, the owner of Timmit Radon Systems, is very familiar with ALARA because it was the standard followed in the nuclear industry, in which Tim worked in for 30 years at the LaSalle County Nuclear plant in Marseilles, Il from 1984-2014. During the last 18 years of employment by Exelon (1996-2014), Tim also installed radon mitigation systems after obtaining a license to do so from the EPA in 1996. The state of Illinois took over the licensing in 1998 through the Illinois Emergency Management Agency (I.E.M.A.) and Tim's state license number is RNM98106, the '98 indicating the year he was licensed. Remember that when talking to radon mitigation contractors claiming business longevity that doesn't match their license number.

We recently became aware that large mortgage companies are attempting to buy the largest radon mitigation companies throughout the country in order to gain control over every aspect involved in the mortgage writing process. One such company, Rocket Mortgage, purchased Elliott & Associates and recently charged a client $4000.00 for a system that would normally cost about $1800.00. So please do your research before selecting a company to install your radon system. The client taken advantage of was clueless about the mitigation process.

Let's get back to ALARA and the PVC pipe issue. The vast majority (over 95%) of radon fans have at least a four-inch duct (inlet & outlet) and as soon as a four-inch duct radon fan is reduced to three-inch PVC pipe, it's efficiency is reduced by at least 20%. Obviously, the fan can't perform optimally nor can it reduce radon levels ALARA without affecting its longevity, since it has to work harder to create the negative pressure when the pipe diameter doesn't match the fan's duct size.

When Tim first started installing systems in 1996, he utilized four-inch PVC pipe and did so for at least the first 12-15 years. He switched to three-inch PVC pipe to compete with what the majority of the radon contractors were using (and still do) for a few years but switched back to four-inch 7 years ago because, even though Tim's never had a house he couldn't fix, there were a few here and there, even with readings below 4.0 pCi/L, he wasn't happy with. It's all about ALARA with Tim and optimal efficiency is the only way to achieve it which necessitates utilizing four-inch instead of three-inch PVC pipe. So, if a realtor tells you what a radon system should cost, please disregard the figure since they're not in the business of mitigating radon from homes. We surely wouldn't try to tell anyone what their home should sell for.

Tim makes the claim that he installs the most aesthetically pleasing and efficient radon systems in the industry because it's true, not a catch phrase. The "All Radon Mitigation Systems Are Not Created Equal" statement on this website may seem like a catch phrase but it's much more than that. It's designed to educate the consumer so they'll do their due diligence when selecting a company to install a system that is both aesthetically pleasing, in regards to every radon system component, and is designed to achieve a post-mitigation radon level that is as close to what the average outdoor level of radon (0.4 pCi/L) is, so the inhabitants of the home are no worse off being inside than they are outside. House characteristics, such as foundation types, age, and sub-slab material composition will have an affect on how low the post-mitigation level will be. As already mentioned above, selecting the properly sized fan components are critical as well.

We're all aware of the economic impact covid triggered. The prices on EVERYTHING have increased exponentially and haven't dropped to the pre-covid levels in the slightest and unfortunately for all of us, they never will. That's no doubt due mostly to corporate greed as record corporate profits attest to and unfortunately, the consumer looking for radon mitigation or anything else is the one that suffers. Pre-covid prices for PVC pipe & fittings, fans, electrical wire, etc. have increased over 300% and they're not coming down any time soon, if ever. So, if a realtor or anyone else tells you that a radon system costs between $1200-$1500, please disregard it & then do your own homework. There are so many variables that come into play when proposing a fair estimate for radon mitigation and every house is not the same, as we all know. Since Timmit Radon Systems utilizes four-inch, rather than three-inch PVC pipe & their associated fittings, fan housings, aluminum downspout exhausts, clear, as opposed to black sump covers, etc. it guarantees we will be more expensive than those who use smaller pipe, no fan housings, pipe instead of downspout, etc.

So, if you're looking for the cheapest radon contractor, we're sorry you've stumbled upon this site. If instead, you're looking for the most efficient and aesthetically pleasing system, please give Tim a call and let's get your radon levels as low as reasonably achievable (ALARA).

More Detailed Radon Information FAQ

When did radon exposure in residences first become a concern to the general public?

In 1984, Stanley Watras, whose body was contaminated with radon, repeatedly set off radiation monitoring alarms on his way into the Limerick nuclear plant construction site, where he worked for Bechtel Corp.

How could this happen?

The nuclear plant was under construction and hadn’t begun producing electricity, which is the only way a measurement of radiation from the plant itself would’ve been possible.

How was the radiation source discovered?

When technicians measured the radiation levels in the Berks County, Pa. home of Stanley and Diane Watras in 1984 around Christmas, they did not believe the test results which measured 2700 pci/l, a now known risk to the Watras family’s health equivilant to each of them smoking 280 packs of cigarettes per day

Did the radon levels surprise the scientists?

Yes. Not only were the readings higher than they had ever seen, but they also were well beyond what scientists had thought was possible in a residence. "It surprised the heck out of everybody because nobody had ever seen anything that high," said Bill Belanger, a radiation specialist with the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.

Was the testing performed accurate?

Yes, the numbers turned out to be accurate. The Watras’ split-level home on Indian Lane in Colebrookdale Township had the highest levels of naturally occurring radiation ever recorded in a home in the United States.

What is the health risk?

The levels of a potentially dangerous radioactive gas called radon, which is emitted by trace amounts of uranium beneath the Earth's surface, were so high that, according to statistics in a 1984 report prepared for Congress, if the Watras’ and their two young sons had lived in the house for just a few more years, they probably would have developed lung cancer.

What action occurred?

Stanley Watras, 34, quickly moved his family out of the house, where they had lived for a year. Meanwhile, state officials set about testing hundreds of other homes in the area to determine whether they were dangerously radioactive. The radon levels in the Watras’ home were about 675 times the maximum level permitted in a uranium mine.)

Were there other high radon areas nearby?

Yes. It was later discovered that many of the Berks County, PA. homes were more contaminated than several hundred houses surrounding an old uranium mill in Canonsburg, Washington County, PA.. The Berks County radon levels were also higher than those at houses in Grand Junction, CO., that were built on radioactive waste from uranium milling.

Where does radon gas originate from?

Uranium, the source of radon in the Watras home and millions of others throughout the United States,is known to be concentrated in the soil. Uranium is more common in the earth than silver and gold.

Where is uranium found?

Traces of the radioactive mineral can be found in all rock, especially granite. By its nature, uranium is in a constant state of decay, breaking down into a variety of radioactive substances, including radon, a colorless, odorless and tasteless gas.

What’s the harm?

Radon, which can seep into a home through cracks or holes in its foundation, is not necessarily hazardous to humans, but radon decays into highly dangerous radioactive particles, which can lodge in the lungs when inhaled.

Are there any studies on exposure to radon?

Yes. Studies of miners show that these particles, known as radon daughters or progeny, can cause lung cancer. The debilitating disease, usually fatal, can take anywhere from five to 20 years to develop and does not usually appear until after the age of 40.

What are some examples of radon entry factors into a home?

A variety of factors - including the amount of uranium in the soil beneath the house, the permeability of the soil, the design of the house and how well the structure is insulated - can affect how much radon is seeping in. One house can be dangerously radioactive, while the house next door can be perfectly safe.

Do radon levels vary?

Yes. In fact, some of the houses in the Watras' neighborhood had normal radon levels. Radon levels can also vary greatly by the season and even by the time of day, because radon concentration can be significantly reduced by air circulation such as opening a window or a door and letting air circulate, although such a solution is not permanent.

Have there been studies completed on the sources of radon contamination in the U.S.?

Yes. The U.S. Department of Energy discovered after testing a Bloomsburg, Pa. radium-dial plant, the employees and many of the employees' spouses, who had not worked at the plant, were also contaminated with radon. It was later confirmed that the source of the radon exposure was the workers' homes.

How does radon get into a house?

Radon gas takes the path of least resistance up through the ground. When a house foundation’s openings combined with lower air pressures above basement, slab or crawlspace floors are adjacent to a radium source, radon enters the home structure through a vacuum effect.

Is radon a recognized health concern?

Yes. Many health and environmental organizations including the American Lung Association, American Cancer Society, American Cancer Institute and the American Medical Association recognize the link between radon exposure and lung cancer occurrences.

Are there any radon disclosure laws?

Yes. As of January 01, 2008, sellers of residential properties in Illinois are required to provide two sets of the following documents to buyers of their home.
“Testing Guidelines for Real Estate Transactions” & “Illinois Disclosure of Information on Radon Hazards”

Is testing mandatory?

No. Sellers are not required to agree to testing and/or remediation of radon gas.

The law applies to 1 to 4 residential properties such as single family, duplexes & 4-unit townhomes, including new construction. Townhomes or apartment buildings that are larger than 4 connected units require a commercial radon license to mitigate.

Why should radon concern you?

Lung cancer is the deadliest of cancers; Its 5-year survival rate is only 10 – 14 percent.

By the time people develop symptoms (shortness of breath, coughing, bloody sputum), the cancer has grown to the size of an orange or has spread to other organs.

I have elevated radon levels, now what?

Sealing of all accessible potential radon entry points via caulks, sealants or fabricated covers is the first step.

Cold-joints (where the bare concrete floor meets the bare concrete walls) must be caulked.

Control cuts (concrete saw cuts or tooled joints placed in the floor shortly after floor pours) must be sealed with caulks or sealants.

What other entry points are a concern?

Floor & wall cracks that are the width of the thickness of a credit card must be filled with caulk or sealants, as well as utility penetrations through the floor or walls that have voids or gaps.

Knockouts for future bathrooms and sump pits must be retrofitted with removable covers made air-tight through the use of caulks, sealants and/or rubber grommets.

What can be done if radon levels are elevated?

All of the above are included in radon mitigation installations. The state does not recommend sealing alone as the preferred method for treating radon gas entry. New cracks may form over time and caulks may not maintain their original sealing qualities.

What is radon mitigation?

Radon mitigation or reduction is an installation process of venting the radon gas to the outside before it can enter your home. There are a few mitigation techniques that have been proven to be very effective at reducing radon levels well below the action level established by the EPA.

How effective is radon mitigation?

All homes with elevated radon levels can be mitigated below 4.0 pCi/L. Present day radon mitigation techniques far exceed 90% effectiveness.

The key to the effectiveness or ease of installation of a radon mitigation system’s performance is related directly to the composition of the sub-slab material. If the sub-slab material is permeable, such as gravel (common in homes 40 years or younger), the post-mitigation radon test results will be very low.

If the sub-slab material is non-permeable, such as clay, dirt or sand or a combination of the three (common in homes 50 years old or older), the system required is much more labor intensive and expensive to mitigate in order to achieve the desired post-mitigation test results.

What if the sub-slab material isn’t permeable?

Multiple suction holes instead of a single hole are usually necessary to achieve the desired results.

Drawing radon gas through tight sub-slab material is nearly impossible and placement of suction holes is determined by communication tests performed in the basement sub-slab material.

What is a sub-slab depressurization system?

Sub-slab depressurization (SSD) systems entail coring four-inch or five-inch holes through the basement floor in order to create a suction pit by excavating the sub-slab material from beneath the cored holes. A loose fill such as gravel is ideal for an SSD system.

Sub-slab material is removed from beneath the holes in order to create a depressurization chamber (suction pit) from which radon gas can be drawn to by a powered fan.

What are some characteristics of a sub-slab depressurization system?

PVC pipe is routed from the hole and connected to an in-line fan that creates suction on the suction pit, drawing the radon gas through the voids within the sub-slab material from beneath the basement floor.

Generally, one suction hole is all that is necessary when sub-slab material is permeable.

What if you have a crawlspace instead of a basement?

Sub-membrane depressurization (SMD) systems are installed when dirt, sand or gravel floors of crawlspaces are present.

The crawlspace floors are covered with a fire-retardant, cross-laminated reinforced plastic membrane that is anchored to the foundation walls of the crawlspace with pressure treated 1" x 4" dimensional lumber with a Timmit Radon Systems installation.

Perforated PVC pipe is routed from beneath the plastic membrane and then connected to solid PVC pipe, which is routed either to the home's attached garage or house attic space or the home's exterior and connected to an in-line fan in order to create suction from beneath the plastic.

What are some Illinois regulations for installing radon mitigation systems?

The Illinois Emergency Management Agency (I.E.M.A.) governs the installation of all radon mitigation systems in Illinois and has requirements for the exhaust termination of radon gas.

The discharge termination must be at least as high as the highest gutter line of any roof line on the house in order to prevent re-entrainment or re-entry of exhausted radon gas into the living spaces of a house.

Are there radon fan location regulations?

Yes. The I.E.M.A. Radon Program requirement determines whether the fan is installed in an attic space or on the outside of the house, although the layout of the home’s foundation and lower-level finish will sometimes necessitate a variance to the exhaust termination requirement.

So where can a radon fan be installed?

If the fan is installed in an attic space, PVC pipe will be utilized for the fan exhaust or discharge and will be routed through the side or back of the roof.

If the fan is installed on the exterior of the house, PVC pipe (used by 95% of mitigators) or 3” x 4” aluminum downspout (100% by Timmit) will be utilized for the fan exhaust and will be routed up to and around the roof eave, terminating at least one foot past the gutter line or roof eave.

What should it look like if the fan is installed in an attic space?

The suction pipe should be supported every 6’ horizontally and every 8’ vertically.

Timmit Radon Systems utilizes a combination of unistrut, pipe clamps & J-hooks to support the pipe rather than pipe strapping.

What should it look like if the the fan is mounted on the exterior of the house?

The best option, regarding appearance & aesthetics is to utilize a paintable weatherproof (exclusive Timmit retrofitted) cover to protect the fan & disconnect switch.

3” x 4” aluminum downspout that matches either the existing gutter & soffit or siding color should be used for the fan exhaust as opposed to PVC pipe for aesthetic purposes.

What is the common practice regarding radon when realtors are involved?

The most common practice by real estate professionals has been to allow the seller to select the cheapest radon system, which is never the best system available. The seller has already been inundated by the buyer to fix other issues with the house and the realtor's advice to secure the cheapest system isn't the best service they can provide for them. If the same practice continues, “what goes around comes around” will come into play. The ‘cheap’ system, which isn’t functionally efficient or aesthetically pleasing, can be a detriment to the present and future sale of the home.

What’s the best solution?

The best solution is to get the buyer involved in the decision as to who installs the system. The seller’s goal is still to pay the absolute minimum for a system and along with the ‘cheap’ proposal he receives, he or she can forward the more expensive ones to the buyers as well. The buyer should request proposals as well and may prefer one over the other and be willing to pay the difference between the seller submitted ‘cheap’ one and one of their choosing.

What harm has been done?

None. By allowing the buyer to make the decision as to which mitigation company installs the system, it absolutely guarantees total satisfaction when the sale of the home is complete. The buyer will enjoy the functional efficiency of an aesthetically pleasing system installed utilizing high quality materials and workmanship when they choose Timmit Radon Systems.

Will the seller be happy?

Of course they will! They will pay the absolute minimum possible for a radon system that the buyer selected and there will be no issues with one of the very last items necessary to complete for the sale of their house.

Will the real estate professionals be happy?

They will be since the service they provided to both sides of the transaction will guarantee that the radon mitigation system will not be a detriment to the present or future sale of the house.

How do we raise the bar?

By changing the way the game is played when dealing with the radon issue, the real estate professional can not only provide the best service possible to their clients but they can also guarantee that the radon system’s appearance in relation to aesthetics, in quality regarding materials and workmanship and system efficiency are raised to a level that eliminates any concerns in real estate transactions regarding radon.

Why & when did the phrase “ALL RADON MITIGATION SYSTEMS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL” originate?

Back in 2007, Tim wanted to communicate a message to the radon industry customer base that would pique their interest in what differentiated Timmit Radon Systems from any other radon mitigation company, so he created the tag line and utilized it in his marketing strategy for the past 16 years. It is solely relevant and unique to Timmit Radon Systems and no other radon company in the industry.

Why is it only relevant and unique to Timmit Radon Systems?

Since 1996, Timmit Radon Systems has installed every mitigation system as if it were in our own home. We install the most functionally efficient and aesthetically pleasing systems, utilizing the highest quality in materials and craftsmanship in the radon industry, which is why a Timmit Radon System installation will never be a detriment to the present or future sale of a home.

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